Dodging a bullet

It's difficult to believe that I've been in Suva nearly four days - eventful days, but not in the way I expected. The good news is that cyclone Zena, which suddenly developed as a category 3 storm on Wednesday, went slightly to the south of its predicted course and so we were spared its damaging winds. People were sent home from work Wednesday afternoon and a curfew was imposed from 6pm. Waking up during the night (a combination of jet lag, anxiety and the sound of rain on an iron roof) I kept checking the bulletins from the met office. By 3.00 am I knew we were safe. Around 8.00 the curfew was lifted, but schools and colleges remained closed because there was so much flooding around the country. Fiji is still in a state of emergency following cyclone Winston 6 weeks ago and this only makes the task of recovery more difficult. You can only marvel at the resilience of people. Intense rain showers are still with us, but the flood levels On major rivers are going down. 

Suva itself is a sprawling city, occupying a peninsular that sits between Suva harbour and Laucala Bay. Capital city and regional centre, you can find relics of the colonial past (from the splendour of the Grand Pacific Hotel to crumbling timber-framed houses) alongside new hotels and shopping centres, apartment blocks, bungalows, squatters' shacks. Nearly 40 years ago, in January 1979, I arrived here for the first time, en route to spending three yeaars teaching in Tonga. I didn't know what had hit me! I was overwhelmed by the heat and sights and sounds and smells, especially when Sue Halapua took me to the indoor market By the wharf. I couldn't imagine getting used to living in an environment like this. It feels very different now. This morning I had my early walk along the sea front, the harbour full of large foreign fishing boats and cargo ships. It feels genuinely good to be back, though. I hugely admire those who deal with the challenges of life here year on Year.  I saw flying foxes heading for their roostS and Falcons carving up the air. In the market I bought pawpaw for breakfast. 

The extreme weather has meant changes to my programme. Tuesday I was able to meet James Bhagwan, communications officer for the Methodist Church. With a background in broadcasting, James uses his many talents in the service of the Church. He's been coordinating the response to the recent cyclone and it's clear that this is going to take the energy and resources of the church for some time to come. Homes, businesses, churches and schools all need rebuilding. James is also involved in the ambitious development programme for the church - a 'new Exodus' as they are calling it. The church has gone through difficult times here since the first coup in the 80s but its present leadership has a very positive outlook. James arranged for me to have lunch with the president of the church, Tevita Banivanua, who I'd last met in London, and he shared his vision for a church that is trying to move forward. 

The photo below is from my visit to the Methodist Theological College of Davuilevu. More of that in my next post. 

With some of the faculty of Davuilevu Theological College (Dr Jerusha Neal, Principal Anil Reuben and Rev Ilimeleki Susu) with portraits of paramount chief Cacobau and missionary John Hunt.