I'm writing this from the sun lounge of John and Brenda Fawkner (more friends from Tonga days) looking down on the port of New Plymouth. I've taken a 24hr break from Auckland and hired a car for the long journey through the mountains. I've had to remind myself of the basic rules of NZ driving. Rule one: it's always further than you think. Rule 2: You can never go as quickly as you expect The journey was a slightly crazy thing to do, but John had a stroke a short while ago and I wanted to see how he was doing. Directly below me is the original freezer works, from where boatloads of NZ lamb have set off to Europe. In the distqnce are the white cliffs that lie to the north and behind us looms the perfect volcanic cone of Mt Taranaki, unseasonally covered in snow after a weekend storm. I don't think I know a house with a more interesting view.
I'm rather in love with New Zealand. Outside the main cities it is glorously uncrowded, the scenery is spectacular (try to imagine Donegal with added sunshine) and most homes have plenty of space around them. On arriving in Auckland Saturday evening I couldn't resist walking the 3 miles from the theological college to the beach at St Heliers to watch the sun set. True, NZ is a long way from anywhere else, and Radio 3 reception is especially poor, but you can't have everythying.
Yesterday I preached twice in the Anglican parish church of Otahuhu, one of many Auckland suburbs and definitely not on the tourist trail. The first service was for the pakeha (predominantly European) congregation - a small group of life's walking wounded, rather reminiscent of St Matthew's in Rev. The second service was very different: a church packed with a mixture of Tongan, Samoan and Fijian familes holding a united service. There were five languages (Tongan, Samoan, fijian, Hindi and English) witheach group contributing anthems and even (a first for me) liturgical dancing in a Polynesian style. Polynesian Anglicanism is of the Anglo-Catholic persuasion. Whereas last week I was overdressed through wearing long trousers, yesterday there was great concern to find a suitable cassock-alb, cincture and stole for me. The high-church style seems to suit the culture - plenty of ceremonial and a strong sense of hierarchy. Presiding over the 2-hour service ('we've kept it short this week as some of us have to go on to other meetings' I was told) was archdeacon 'Amanaki. It wouldn't be unfair to say that he has transferred a number of skills, including his leadership style, from his previous work as a prison officer! The service began (as it always has when I've visited this church) with 'Ofa ange ke lilingi (the opening verse of Love Divine all loves excelling in Tongan) - a guarantee to lift the spirits. Afterwards I was persuaded (against my better judgement) to join a kava circle with some of the men. I always say 'sisi'ipe' (just a little) but no one takes any notice.
Back to Auckland tomorrow for some workshops with the Polynesian clergy. I'll let you know how they go.
Photos will have to wait.
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